
Reading Between the Lines
The Abbasid Nilometer in Cairo's Inscriptions in Context
Wednesday, October 29, 2025
6–7 pm
$20 Regular • $18 Friends
Tickets to this event include admission to the Museum’s galleries.
What secrets can a medieval water gauge reveal about power, faith, and history?
Join Dr. Heba Mostafa in conversation with Dr. Michael Chagnon for this illustrated presentation as they explore this historical puzzle. Using digital reconstruction to restore the lost fragments from textual accounts, this conversation will reveal an important chapter in medieval Egypt’s environmental history, public inscriptions, and humanity’s relationship with the natural world.
In medieval Egypt, the annual Nile flood was a matter of life and death — the difference between abundance and famine. To manage this vital resource, a network of Nilometers was built to measure the seasonal flood. During the Abbasid period, a new Nilometer was constructed to replace its ailing predecessor. Located on the river island of al-Rawda, across from Fustat in modern-day Cairo, it remained the state-sponsored site of Nile measurement for centuries.
While principally a measuring device, the Nilometer bore a stone-carved Kufic inscription with Quranic verses praising God’s beneficence through rainfall, alongside the Abbasid caliph’s titles. In a rare occurrence in medieval Islamic architecture, the inscription also reportedly included the name of the Nilometer’s architect.
Yet at some point between the end of the ninth and the eleventh centuries, the inscription segment that bore the titles of both caliph and architect was expertly excised and replaced with additional Quranic verses. Why would someone alter such a highly visible, politically significant inscription? What forces were at play?

Bios

Heba Mostafa
Assistant Professor of Islamic Art and ArchitectureUniversity of Toronto

Dr. Michael Chagnon
CuratorAga Khan Museum
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